Understanding Lash Lift Resistance: The Role of Hormones

A lash lift is one of the most popular beauty treatments today, offering clients a low-maintenance way to enhance their natural lashes with a semi-permanent curl. However, not every lash lift goes as planned—sometimes the lashes resist curling, leaving lash artists and clients frustrated. One often-overlooked factor in this resistance is hormonal changes. In this blog post, we’ll dive into what a lash lift is, how it works, and why hormones can make lashes resistant to the treatment.

Lash Lift + Tint Before vs. After

What Is a Lash Lift and How Does It Work?

A lash lift is a chemical treatment designed to enhance the natural lashes by lifting and curling them. The process involves:

1. Cleansing the Lashes: The lashes are cleaned to remove oils, makeup, and debris.

2. Applying a Silicone Shield: A silicone shield or rod is placed on the eyelid to mold the lashes into the desired curl shape.

3. Using a Lifting Solution: A chemical solution is applied to break down the keratin bonds in the lashes, softening their structure.

4. Setting the Curl: A neutralizing solution is applied to reform the keratin bonds, locking the lashes into their new shape.

5. Final Steps: Nourishing serums or tints may be added for extra enhancement.

The result? Beautifully curled lashes that last for 6–8 weeks. But when hormones come into play, things don’t always go as planned.

Why Do Hormones Make Lashes Resistant to Lash Lifts?

1. Changes in the Keratin Structure

Hair—including eyelashes—is made primarily of keratin, a tough protein that determines its shape, texture, and elasticity. Hormonal fluctuations, such as those during pregnancy, menopause, or even monthly cycles, can alter the composition of keratin in the hair. When keratin becomes denser or less pliable, lashes may resist the chemical process used in a lash lift.

What this means for lash artists:

When lashes are structurally rigid, they are less likely to soften and reform during the lifting process, leading to a poor or uneven curl.

2. Thicker or Smoother Hair Cuticles

The outermost layer of the hair, the cuticle, serves as a protective shield. During hormonal changes, the cuticle can become thicker or smoother. This makes it harder for the lifting solution to penetrate the lash and break down the keratin bonds.

What this means for lash artists:

If the lifting solution cannot fully absorb into the lashes, the treatment will be less effective. Thorough lash cleansing and ensuring correct solution coverage can help mitigate this.

3. Oil Coating from Hormonal Sebum Production

Hormonal shifts, particularly those involving testosterone or progesterone, can increase sebum (oil) production. Excess oil often coats the lashes, creating a barrier that prevents the lifting solution from adhering properly to the hair.

What this means for lash artists:

Oily lashes can make the lifting solution slide off rather than penetrate. Always cleanse lashes thoroughly before applying the lifting solution to avoid this issue.

4. The Hair Growth Cycle

Lashes grow in cycles, with three main phases:

• Anagen (Growth Phase): Lashes are soft, short, and still developing.

• Catagen (Transition Phase): Lashes stop growing but remain attached.

• Telogen (Shedding Phase): Lashes are fully matured and eventually fall out.

Hormonal changes can disrupt this cycle or cause more lashes to be in the anagen phase. Lashes in this early stage are softer and more immature, making them less responsive to the lash lift process.

What this means for lash artists:

Timing can be crucial. If a client’s lashes seem unusually soft or sparse, it may be worth waiting a week or two for more mature lashes to emerge.

5. Low Porosity in Lashes

Hair porosity refers to how well the hair absorbs and retains moisture or chemicals. Lashes with low porosity have a tightly sealed cuticle, making it difficult for solutions to penetrate. Hormonal changes can reduce porosity, leaving lashes highly resistant to chemical treatments.

What this means for lash artists:

Low-porosity lashes might require a longer processing time or a stronger solution. Be cautious when adjusting processing times to ensure safety and avoid over-processing.

6. Changes in Hydration and Elasticity

Hormones can affect the water retention and elasticity of lashes. Overly hydrated lashes can become too pliable, while dehydrated lashes may be brittle and inflexible. Both conditions can interfere with how well the lifting solution works.

What this means for lash artists:

Hydration balance matters. Encourage clients to maintain good lash care between appointments to ensure optimal lash health.

How to Improve Lash Lift Results on Resistant Lashes

As a lash artist, you can take steps to minimize the impact of hormones and improve results for clients with resistant lashes:

1. Thorough Cleansing: Use a high-quality lash cleanser to remove oils and debris before starting the treatment.

2. Adjust Processing Time: Consider extending the processing time slightly, but always within safe limits.

3. Use a Stronger Solution: If the lashes are especially resistant, a stronger lifting solution may be necessary in specific cases.

4. Timing Is Key: If the client is pregnant, on their menstrual cycle, or experiencing other hormonal fluctuations, rescheduling might yield better results.

5. Educate Clients: Explain the role of hormones and recommend proper aftercare tips to support healthy lashes.

Final Thoughts

Hormonal changes can significantly impact how lashes respond to a lash lift. As a lash artist, understanding these nuances can help you troubleshoot resistance and provide the best possible results for your clients. By combining technical skills with client education, you can set yourself apart as a knowledgeable professional in the beauty industry.

Stay informed, stay adaptable, and remember: every set of lashes is unique!