Understanding Eyelash Porosity: Why It Matters for Application & Retention
- Grace Dunn
- Jan 2
- 4 min read
When it comes to lash retention, most lash artists focus on adhesive choice, humidity, technique, and aftercare. While these are all critical factors, natural eyelash porosity is another variable that significantly influences how lash extensions bond and how long they last, yet, it is often overlooked!
Just like the hair on your head, natural lashes have varying porosity levels. Understanding eyelash porosity can completely change how you approach application, product choice, and client expectations, leading to more consistent results.
What Is Eyelash Porosity?
Eyelash porosity refers to how open or closed the cuticle layer of the natural lash is, and how easily it absorbs and retains moisture, oils, and products.
Lashes with a tightly closed cuticle absorb product slowly, while lashes with a more open or compromised cuticle absorb product quickly.
Porosity is influenced by:
Genetics
Past chemical treatments (ie. lash lifts, tints)
Environmental exposure
Health, hormonal changes, and medications
Mechanical or chemical stress over time
There are three commonly recognized porosity categories:
Low porosity
Normal (or medium) porosity
High porosity
Low Porosity Lashes
Characteristics
Appear shiny, smooth, sleek, or even oily
Tightly closed cuticle layer
Smooth surface
Naturally more resistant to moisture and product penetration
Often seen on clients with oily skin
During Application
Low porosity lashes may:
Resist primers and bonding agents
Allow adhesive to sit on the surface longer before fully bonding
Be more prone to slight slipping if placement is rushed
This does not mean adhesive cannot cure properly. Cyanoacrylate still cures via moisture in the air, but the bond may take slightly longer to stabilize on very smooth lashes.
Retention Considerations
If prep is insufficient or if the artist moves the extension before the bond has stabilized, retention may be reduced.
Artist Adjustments
Clean lashes thoroughly to remove oils
Use a high pH primer to open cuticles
Avoid over-priming, which can create a barrier between the natural lash and the adhesive
Allow adequate time for placement before releasing the lash
Maintain correct environmental conditions for adhesive curing
Normal Porosity Lashes
Characteristics
Balanced cuticle structure
Even moisture absorption
Consistent response to prep and adhesive
Do not appear overly shiny or very matte
During Application
Normal porosity lashes typically:
Accept adhesive easily
Allow stable bonding
Require minimal technique adjustment
Retention Considerations
When isolation, attachment, and aftercare are correct, normal porosity lashes tend to have the most consistent retention, and do not require any special preparation or application techniques.
High Porosity Lashes
Characteristics
Often appear matte, dry, or dull
More open or compromised cuticle layer
Absorb moisture and products very quickly
High porosity lashes are commonly seen in clients who:
Receive frequent lash lifts or tints
Use harsh or oil-heavy products improperly
Have underlying health or hormonal factors affecting hair quality
During Application
Because these lashes absorb product quickly:
Adhesive can set very rapidly at the bonding point
Bonds may become less flexible or brittle if too much adhesive is used
Over-priming can further dehydrate the lash
Retention Considerations
High porosity lashes may appear to bond well initially, but retention issues often occur due to:
Increased fragility of the natural lash
Breakage or premature shedding unrelated to the adhesive bond
This is a lash health issue, not necessarily an application error.
Artist Adjustments
Use a gentle primer minimally or skip primer altogether
Use a gentle cleanser and wash thoroughly
Avoid excessive adhesive
Choose lighter extensions to reduce stress
Educate clients on proper cleansing
How Porosity Influences Retention
Porosity affects:
How prep products interact with the natural lash
How quickly adhesive stabilizes at the bonding point
The flexibility and durability of the bond over time
The overall condition and strength of the natural lash
Poor retention is not always caused by:
Incorrect adhesive
Poor application technique
Client non-compliance
Biological factors, including porosity, play a major role and must be accounted for professionally.
How to Assess Eyelash Porosity Before Application
Porosity assessment is observational and experience-based.
Visual & Texture Indicators
Smooth, shiny lashes → More likely low porosity
Dry, matte, uneven lashes → More likely high porosity
Balanced texture → Normal porosity
Client History Questions
Ask about:
Frequency of lash lifts or tints
Retention patterns from previous lash sets
Medication or hormonal changes
Skincare products used near the eyes
During Cleansing & Prep
Observe how lashes react:
Product beading or slow absorption → Lower porosity
Immediate absorption → Higher porosity
Why Lash Artists Need to Understand Porosity
Understanding eyelash porosity allows lash artists to:
Customize prep techniques
Adjust adhesive usage appropriately
Improve retention consistency
Protect natural lash health
Educate clients confidently and accurately
Reduce unnecessary refills and dissatisfaction
Most importantly, it helps artists distinguish between technique-based issues and biological limitations, which is essential for professional growth.
Final Thoughts
Lash porosity isn’t talked about enough in the industry, yet it plays a massive role in both application quality and long-term results.
When lash artists understand porosity, they move beyond one-size-fits-all application and into intentional, science-based, customized lash artistry.
Retention issues are not always a failure of skill. Sometimes, they are simply a signal to adjust strategy, and porosity is often the missing piece!
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